L'étable, Arvert

Under new management and surprisingly empty on a midweek evening in July. It is peak season after all... The striking thing about this place is the immense woodburning grill in the centre of the room. With its cast iron hood suspended on nautical strength chains from the ceiling you can't not see it.

A huge salad of the region with duck, gizzards, nuts, for son and a carpaccio of beef for me. Both well presented and tasty.

Mains of scallops with pasta and chili for me and my son opts for bavette. Not being quite sure what this is we ask the waitress who brings in her dad, the chef, to explain. He produces the menu in english with a flourish where it is listed as bib steak. We discuss cows and steaks and various cuts for a minute with many hand gestures pointing to exactly where on the cow this steak is situated and eventually we call it a draw. Research later produces either flank steak or top of skirt of beef or undercut. Needs cooking a bit longer than a minute steak. The sort of steak you get in a steak sandwich in a baguette in a gastro pub in England.

The steak was fine. Good Saumur Champigny wine. Fine cheese course. A bargain at 50 euros for two. Why was it empty? We'll go again.