Zam Zam (The curry man), Upper Briggate, Leeds

The Zam Zam curry house is as splendid as any you would find lining the back streets of Bradford, though rather incongruous just a couple of doors away from the lavishly re-furbished Opera House in Leeds. Basic, no-frills, no nonsense, Formica-topped, plastic seated eating house class 3 (as it would be in Bombay, though the staff are more likely from Kashmir). Quick service soon brings a chicken Rogan Josh with pilau rice, two chapattis and a glass of mango juice. Well worth waiting for if you ever have to wait. Full flavoured, rich sauce and tastes, good balance of heat and spice, good texture, more than adequate portions.

Cost £14 for two. A snip for central Leeds.
Star rating (see below) ***

Let's start using a star rating as follows:
* Adequate
** Acceptably Pleasant
*** Good
**** Very good indeed and worth seeking out
***** Fabulous - hope I visit here again before God takes me.