Caesar Salad

Saturday, October 14, 2006

St. David's Hotel and Spa, Cardiff

What a rich tapestry we weave on these islands. Just a couple of hundred miles as the Virgin Trains fly and we find a country with a different language, a distinctive history, its own sense of justice and its own aspirations. I love the richness of this social fabric, even though there may be some tension between the Anglo-Saxon background behind me and the Celtic background behind the Welsh. The First Minister talks about the way that English names tend to reflect the occupations of the person while the Welsh name tends to reflect the Christian name of the father and the way in which some people argue that this explains the higher level of employment and income in England but, hell, we can't sing like them (my comment, not Rhodri Morgan's). Karaoke at the Golden Cross late that night confirms this. The Senedd, home of the Welsh Assembly, designed by an Englishman (Richard Rogers) is a glass, aluminium and wood construction that opens up the whole process of government and allows the people to watch the elected representatives and lobby them very easily if they want to. But it's a woman playing on a harp that gives it its human dimension.

Dinner at the St David's Hotel and Spa. One of the best this year (and it's October). Set in Cardiff Bay (a recent construction, as false as the building housing the hotel - which could just as easily be an office buliding and should, really, if justice were to be done, be demolished to make way for a real buliding). One of the many re-generated docklands of the UK (more power to their elbow - but, please, let's talk about the architecture).

Hors d'oeuvre. A lovely, light Aubergine-focused salady starter with fresh, crisp Frisee lettuce and watercress; an indistinguishable dressing that is lovely on the tongue and tangy and refreshing; preparing the palate for greater things. Maybe it's my shortcoming that I can't distinguish it, not the dressing's fault.

A magnifcent Entree. Leg of lamb. I know, cliched, as we are in Wales but succulent as they come. Obvious marinade gives the roasted outer layers both crispy texture and caramelised taste; inside it's as sweet and juicy as one could hope for. Perfect vegetable accompaniments; viz. a parcel of green beans bundled up in a band formed from the crust of a cucumber at perfect al dente texture. Carrot sticks. Creamed potatoes with the distinctive flavour of Rosemary but with none of the Rosemary leaves. How did the chef do that? I determined to ask him but this was a very busy night (about 200 guests, each receiving the same dish simultaneously, well done chef) and I thought I would be in the way so I didn't ask to talk to him (I saw him come out of his kitchen earlier so I know Chef was male). What regrets that I didn't find out the secret. I must ask if anyone else knows how to achieve this.

A pause and then the dessert. Apple Strudel with a small (but perfect) boule of vanilla ice cream and (you are showing off chef) a Saturn's ring spider's web of sugar strands cutting through the whole composition - brittle and delicate in the mouth and amusing as half-food, half-filament scaffolding. Thanks, chef, you deserve accolade for this. Reminds me of a Ha Ha in the grounds of a stately home.

Petit Fourres. Another of Chef's reminders that his profession is a profession. Delicate and welcome. Along with the good quality coffee. A selection varying from the inevitable frangipane to whole spearmint (well, minature Kendal mint cakes really).

Wine was a South African Pinotage/Cabernet-Sauvignon with delicate flavours of strawberries and vanilla. Doesn't read well with the meaty lamb but tasted fine in reality.

Cost: not sure really; it was part of the whole package. Let's say about £26 per head.