Piazza by Anthony, Leeds Corn Exchange 27th July 2009

In his Guardian article, Jay Rayner rightly said that Piazza by Anthony (or, at least its owner, “the Flinns”) is doing Leeds a social service. That may well be right, but I’m looking for a good meal, not Joseph Rowntree.

I guess Jay meant that by moving into this magnificent building and taking the chance other retailers will follow, the Flinns are providing the good folk of Leeds with an absolute gem of a setting, restored to its original glory – well, beyond original and towards cosmic really.

But I wanted a good meal and I was mildly disappointed. In the best spirit of this column I ordered the Chicken Caesar Salad at £9.45. I eschewed the small size and asked for the large but, unlike Jay, I found a portion I could only describe as “meagre”. Two types of lettuce – one cress style and one robust Cos. Some anchovies certainly. A few other bits and pieces with a reasonable dressing and most important of all the chicken. But anodine chicken. Tender, but possibly poached. Certainly not inspired in the flavour department. Although this was merely a late afternoon snack, we were hungry and the dishes were obviously not going to fill us so one of my guests ordered a basket of bread. Anywhere else in Europe you would get a basket of bread as standard. Anywhere else in England you would get a basket of bread. But here? We got a plated starter portion of bread. A grudging, small plate of admittedly good breads served with a ramekin of oil and balsamic vinegar. Charged at £2.50.

One of my guests asked the waiter why his black spaghetti was broken into small pieces, difficult to handle with a fork and spoon. The correct answer to this question is “Because that was what was left at the bottom of the packet” but he received the “I’ll go and ask” answer. The waiter never returned of course.

In summary, I am reluctant to dissuade you from trying this restaurant but I am reluctant to encourage you to use it. They are trying – polite young staff – but I think they may be struggling with the footfall.

3 people. 1 large asparagus salad; 1 large Caesar salad; 1 large spaghetti squid; 1 bread; 2 Espresso; 1 filter coffee; 1 carafe tapwater;1 Petit Chablis; service charge; £65.51.