L'étable, Arvert

Under new management and surprisingly empty on a midweek evening in July. It is peak season after all... The striking thing about this place is the immense woodburning grill in the centre of the room. With its cast iron hood suspended on nautical strength chains from the ceiling you can't not see it.

A huge salad of the region with duck, gizzards, nuts, for son and a carpaccio of beef for me. Both well presented and tasty.

Mains of scallops with pasta and chili for me and my son opts for bavette. Not being quite sure what this is we ask the waitress who brings in her dad, the chef, to explain. He produces the menu in english with a flourish where it is listed as bib steak. We discuss cows and steaks and various cuts for a minute with many hand gestures pointing to exactly where on the cow this steak is situated and eventually we call it a draw. Research later produces either flank steak or top of skirt of beef or undercut. Needs cooking a bit longer than a minute steak. The sort of steak you get in a steak sandwich in a baguette in a gastro pub in England.

The steak was fine. Good Saumur Champigny wine. Fine cheese course. A bargain at 50 euros for two. Why was it empty? We'll go again.

The Crown, Islington

Perfect.

The menu had only 5 starters , 10 mains and 6 side orders. All on a single A4 sheet headed Dinner Saturday 14th July 2007.

Mackerel and Spring Onion Pate with toast was brilliant rough textures with plenty of oniony bite. Baked avocado with Wild mushroom and stilton stuffing sent my son into oxymorons of hyperbole.

Amande Clam Linguine similar as a main for eldest son. My slow roasted belly of pork with sautéed new potatoes, savoy and turnip also was sublime. Real crackling, lots of two tone juicy pork. Served on bed of perfectly cooked extras.

A robust chilean red and a shared cheese course with 4 quality cheeses.

Where they did it right was to do a few things well rather than try too much. Heartily recommended. £60 for two although we did sneak an extra glass of red with the cheese. I always knew London could do it but this place proved it. Easily as good as many french restos and better than most. Off the beaten track and I hope it stays that way. Don't go there! Leave it for me and my friends. That's why I've tried to keep the actual address secret.