Caesar Salad

Monday, January 23, 2006

Changing of the Guard at the Trappeurs Restaurant

I got the essential Bob Dylan CD for Xmas and took it ski-ing in the Alps last week. One track stands out for me. Changing of the Guards from the album Street Legal (stored somewhere in my attic). Being as the other CD I took was Rod Stewart's greatest hits I played the Dylan CD many many times. No matter how many times I listened I still don't understand the words. But let's look at food.

Sixteen years,
Sixteen banners united over the field
Where the good shepherd grieves.
Desperate men, desperate women divided,
Spreading their wings 'neath the falling leaves.

Montalbert in the french alps is a hidden gem. One night club (which is cheesey and not well inhabited), a dozen restaurants and hundreds of studios for skiers. The entire village is 6 minutes walk from end to end and it's at the end of a cul de sac with no though traffic. The lifts give you access to the entire Paradiski area which is bigger than outer mongolia googleplex squared and has hundreds of kilometres of pistes.

Fortune calls.
I stepped forth from the shadows to the marketplace
Merchants and thieves, hungry for power,
my last deal gone down.
She's smelling sweet like the meadows where she was born,
On midsummer's eve, near the tower.

Trappeurs cafe was the best in the village. It was also the most expensive. However the quality was very good. First day, nackered after a long day in airports, they gave a free glass of local vin blanc followed by a salade toscane (mozzarella and tomatoes with herbs and an amazingly peppery olive oil dressing), noix st jacques with compote of a green vegetable and an orange vegetable which were probably mixtures, but the presentation was outstanding and the scallops were chunky and delicieuses. Also had their house speciality Mont d'or Roti which was cheese roasted in its plywood case (which rendered it both runny and crusty au meme temps)accompanied by charcuterie and potatoes, far too much to eat and a fantastic dish.

The cold-blooded moon.
The captain waits above the celebration
Sending his thoughts to a beloved maid
whose ebony face is beyond communication.
The captain is down but still believing that his love will be repaid.

Wine was disappointing. I was persuaded to try a Mondeuse local variety at 21 euros and it would struggle to make our local co-op in the remnants bin. Pichets of wine were expensive Cotes du Rhone at 17 euros a bottle (co-op £4).

They shaved her head.
She was torn between Jupiter and Apollo.
A messenger arrived with a black nightingale.
I seen her on the stairs and I couldn't help but follow,
Follow her down past the fountain where they lifted her veil.

Desserts were amazing. Their café gormand was 5 euros and you received mini creme brulé, a mini chocolate brownie, a glass full of chantilly cream and a black coffee.

I stumbled to my feet.
I rode past destruction in the ditches with the stitches still mending
'neath a heart-shaped tattoo.
Renegade priests and treacherous young witches
were handing out the flowers that I'd given to you.

Last day was almost as good.

The palace of mirrors
where dog soldiers are reflected,
The endless road and the wailing of chimes
The empty rooms where her memory is protected
Where the angels' voices whisper to the souls of previous times.

Delices de foie gras - small but beautiful.

She wakes him up
forty-eight hours later, the sun is breaking
Near broken chains, mountain laurel and rolling rocks.
She's begging to know what measures he now will be taking.
He's pulling her down and she's clutching on to his long golden locks.

Pavé de saumon plus the most amazing jacket potato with local cheeses

Gentlemen, he said,
I don't need your organization,
I've shined your shoes, I've moved your mountains and marked your cards
But Eden is burning, either get ready for elimination
Or else your hearts must have the courage for the changing of the guards.

Fondue de Montagne for 2 people. Massive cheese and humungous assiette de charcuterie (dictionary note coin de montagne means a bedroom without a door)
Truite de Beaufort

Peace will come
with tranquility and splendour on the wheels of fire
But will offer no reward when her false idols fall
And cruel death surrenders with its pale ghost retreating
Between the King and the Queen of Swords.

Finished with a genepi. Been wondering all week what this was and found out that it's a plant that grows only at altitude and produces a liqueur (but in my experience the french could produce a liqueur from anything and a genepi wasn't that cracky. Especially at an inflated 8 euros a glass)

Brilliant food but at a price. The ambience was worth extra and the chef complimented me on my french (you even use the correct tense!).

I still don't understand the words...

Mais l'année prochaine...