It's Panini Jim but not as we know it

Debenham's small cafe on the mezzanine in the White Rose Centre, Leeds. A posh haven and retreat from the madding crowd. Waitress service. Choice between straight Caesar Salad and Caesar Salad Panini. I had to choose the panini didn't I? Travesty of food. Avoid like the plague. Looks like a hot ciabatta. Tastes of reheated roast chicken with a sliver of bacon (I find on examination), some sort of "Caesar" sauce and melted cheese hot enough to burn my lips. Served with a dressing-less, dull salad straight from the bag and a couple of potato crisps. I ask how the "panini" had been heated. In a "flash" oven - combined microwave and other source of heat. I prefer mine as of old - flattened between two hot surfaces (for goodness sake, you could even use two hot frying pans on a ring if you have no George Foreman grill) and chicken stir-fried to give some flavour. Coffee and orange juice superb. £8.15 the lot.

Your tireless reporter will attempt the plain Caesar Salad next time and report back.